Food history: Rice is ever-present in eateries and restaurants today. This was not always the case

In eateries and restaurants, rice is ever-present. This was not always the case. As immigrants from rice-focused countries have increased in number in the US and Europe, so too have eateries that cater to them, and to the rest of us. “Authenticity” is not the point, although a close resemblance to “the real thing” is always a good selling point, no matter how far-fetched the link.

During the 1850s, Chinese workers in California opened small, simple restaurants in their “Chinatowns” in order to cater to their compatriots. Steamed white rice mounded in a bowl was the backdrop for pork, greens, tofu, seasonings of fermented black beans, soy and oyster sauces, as well as garlic, ginger, spring onions (scallions) and sesame oil. Eventually, menus expanded as non-Chinese customers arrived, although there was often a separation between what the Chinese and non-Chinese ate, with the exception of rice, of course!

What we think of as “fried rice” began as a way to use up leftovers in the kitchen and was not included on the menu, at first at least. Nevertheless, fried rice in various guises (pork, shrimp, tofu) has become a staple in restaurants today, whether Cantonese or not. Fried rice is now available…

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