Food history: How nihari went from being the humble food of the poor to a dish for the high table

When we flip the pages of culinary history, we find stories of royal dishes that eventually made their way into the lives of common folk, gracing the bustling streets with a taste of the palace. Among these, the narrative of nihari is particularly striking. What started as a humble nourishment for the poor, rose through the culinary ranks to grace the royal table. In the royal kitchens, the recipe was refined and enriched, yet the essence of the dish – the texture and the depth of flavour – remained untouched. I believe nihari to be not just a dish but a symbol of aspiration, embodying the journeys of individuals who rose from obscurity to prominence and inspired countless others.

Growing up, the anticipation of Eid-ul-Azha (Bakrid) always brought with it the promise of homemade nihari, a dish immersed in our family tradition. Each year, we would journey to our maternal and paternal house in Sasaram to partake in it. Chote Mamu would call the naanbai (bread maker), providing him with the ingredients to craft the khamiri naan – the perfect companion to nihari in my opinion.

Meanwhile, the women of the house – Ammi, Khala and Mami—along with our ever-reliable house help,…

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